A little while back I wrote about how to use Cura with the Monoprice Voxel / FlashForge Adventurer 3, in that article I discussed how to create a printer profile and slice your models to produce a G-Code file. However, without using the bundled FlashPrint software, it was not possible to transfer the file over the network – instead needing to use a USB flash drive.
I wanted a lightweight app I could use to transfer files to my printer, so I’ve spent the last few weeks I’ve been building Adventurer Client to do just that. I wanted to use it as an opportunity to learn some new frameworks / technologies and I had a lot of fun building it. I thought it would be useful for other FlashForge & Monoprice users too, so now I’m ready to share it with you all.
Using Adventurer Client, you can connect to the printer, see its state and transfer already sliced gcode files to the printer.
I’ve tested this with a Monoproce Voxel, which is a rebranded FlashFordge Adventure 3, I believe this will work with other FlashFordge Printers too, but I don’t have access to any to test this. If you try the app with your printer and it works (or does not) please let me know 🙂.
Getting the App
If you’re running Windows 10, the easiest way to get the app is to instal it from the Microsoft Store here.
Windows 7, 8 & 8.1
To install the app on older versions of Windows download the installer (AdventurerClient-win.exe) from the lastest release here.
To install the app on older versions of Windows download the macOS dmg (AdventurerClient-mac.dmg) from the lastest release here.
“Adventurer Client” cannot be opened because the developer cannot be verified.
Unfortunately, Apple requires that software running on macOS be signed and notarized so that they can verify its identity. Doing this would require me to buy an Apple Developer license which is quite expensive. Therefore, for the time being, the app is distributed unsigned (if I buy a developer license later on, I’ll submit this to the App Sotre). To run the app you need to perform the following steps, for the first run only.
Double click on “Adventurer Client”
At the “Adventurer Client” cannot be opened because the developer cannot be verified. message, click cancel
Right click on the app and click open
At the macOS cannot verify the developer of “Adventurer Client”. Are you sure you want to open it? message, click Open
I’ve published the app’s source under the MIT license on my GitHub. In order to easily support running on both Windows and Mac, it is implemented as an Angular app in an Electron wrapper. I was larning a lot about these technologies as I went, so if there are things that seem odd, your feedback (or pull requests) would be warmly welcomed.
I this app is useful to some people, I plan on continueinf to tinker with it over time. If you have any feedback or suggestions, drop me a comment or a tweet on Twitter.
Like a lot of people, I’ve found that my TV viewing habits have moved away from broadcast TV and towards streaming services such as Netflix and Amazon Prime. I decided it was time to have a cold hard look at how much I was spending on my TV subscription and take the brave first step to becoming a cord cutter – I phoned my Inernet Service Provider and cancelled.
My ISP sent me a fantastically designed self-assembly box in the post to mail the set top box back to them. As I packed it away, I thought that I wanted to still have access to live TV – just without being tied down in an expensive contract. I considered a few Freeview (a free DVB-T service in the UK) boxes, but it would be much more fun to build something myself. So that’s what I did.
For my TV, I wanted the following features:
Watch live TV
Watch a live broadcast while recoding another (or record two at once)
Schedule recurring recordings for all episodes in a series
Stream Recordings to an iPad on the same network
For the hardware of my TV recorder, I used a 2GB Raspberry Pi 4 – this should be powerful enough to handle recording and playback of video files. Its super small and easily connects to my hifi using HDMI. During early testing, the Raspberry Pi got extremely hot, and while I never observed any stability issues or slowdowns, I installed a passive heat sink on it to help out.
To actually tune to the broadcast, I used a Hauppauge WinTV-dual HD TV tuner connected with a small USB cable. This includes two DVT-T and two DVB-C tuners in a convenient stick form factor. In the box with the tuner, there was a small antenna to use when you’re on the go. I left this in the box and plugged the tuner directly into my roof antenna to get a better signal.
Also included with the WinTV stick was a credit card sized infrared remote control to use with the included WinTV software. As I already had a Logitech Harmony setup, I chose not to add an IR receiver to the Pi – instead I set up the Raspberry Pi as if it were a Windows machine in the Harmony app and connected to it using Bluetooth. This works really well – when I switch to the TV, the Harmony connects as a Bluetooth keyboard and I have full remote control (including text input).
Rather than buying a very expensive SD card to store all the recordings, I wanted to use an external hard drive. As performance was not a massive issue, an SSD was not needed and I already had a spare 500GB mechanical drive spare. I bought an Amazon Basics Hard Drive enclosure and connected this via USB to the Pi. This was problematic though, as both the Raspberry Pi and the external hard drive are quite power hungry and exceeded the total power draw of the power supply. This caused the device to struggle to boot up with the hard drive ticking and the Pi logging a lot of low voltage errors.
To fix this, I added a powered 7 port USB hub, that can supply enough power for the hard drive. I power the Raspberry Pi off this, too, so the whole system only has one power connection in the wall.
Finally, I took this whole arrangement and tied it together as one unit using zip ties. It is currently hidden out of sight behind the TV. Going forwards, I want to build this into a more attractive case. I considered 3D printing something, but it is too large for my print volume, so I’m currently on the lookout for a broken set top box that I can remove the innards and replace with this device. I haven’t found anything that meets my needs yet, but I do have a broken original Xbox in the garage that is a tempting idea.
With the hardware built, it was time to move on to the software. For this project there was no need to custom write anything, as there are already some excellent open source projects in the community.
For the management of the TV side of the device – responsible for tuning to live TV and scheduling & playing recordings – I used Tvheadend. Tvheadend can be installed on any device on the network, as it is controled though a simple API and supplies the live TV or recoding as a video steam. In my case, I installed it on the same Raspberry Pi that I connected to the TV, and accessed it though localhost.
The advantage of Tvheadend working in this way is that you can also make use of the iPad app to stream both live TV and recordings. I use this so I can watch recordings in the kitchen while cooking – which is probably my favorite feature.
As a front end for the system I used Kodi – installed via the LibreELEC Raspberry Pi image.
Previously known as Xbox Media Centre, due to its heritage running on original Xboxs, Kodi provides a friendly and easy to use TV sized interface. From the addon repository, I added the Tvheadend plugin that lets me control the Tvheadend service though Kodi.
Building your own TV recorder this way is not for the faint hearted. While it seems like a simple job of putting all of the pieces together and pressing the power button, it has involved some in-depth configuration and an awful lot of deeply frustrating troubleshooting. Here’s a rundown of some of the headaches along the way:
Tvheadend has a lot of options – Setting up authentication can be a little confusing, as can the DVR configuration. While it does have documentation, I frequently found it to be stale – referring to buttons or options that had moved or no longer available. Often figuring something out can involve some searching and reading forums.
The sound kept breaking – I’d boot up and watch a TV show, no problem – then I’d come back later and there would be no sound until I rebooted. Eventually I tracked this down to a configuration option on the Raspbery Pi, where it does not output a HDMI signal until it detects a connected device. I changed this to force output even if no device is connected (or it is off) and I’ve had no issues since.
The TV kept turning itself on for no reason – I’d be minding my own business, and the TV would turn on all by itself. To resolve this, I disabled the HDMI CEC plugin for Kodi.
Sometimes there would be artifacts at the top of the screen – Some TV shows had a black line at the top of the screen that flickers during playback. I think this is related to how subtitles are encoded on SD TV and subtitles, but to resolve the irritation for me, I set a 1 pixel overscan on the picture so I couldn’t see it.
Live pause doesn’t work – Or more specifically, after pausing when you press play again, playback fails and you have to restart playback. I’m still investigating this; I’ll update ether article if I find a fix.
Tvheadend doesn’t always start on bootup – I ran into a lot of issues where Tvheadend would not boot properly and no TV sources woud be available. I resolved this by adding a delay in the Kodi config before it attempts to start the Tvheadend service – this allows everything to get ready first.
Generally, I’m pretty happy with my TV recorder – with the streaming options and the apps, it provides features that are only available on much more expensive subscription services. Tinkering with the settings to get it to work, while a little frustrating, provided a few evenings of entertainment during lockdown (although when you sit down to watch a movie and end up fiddling with your config for an hour instead, “entertainment” may be a generous description).
I already had some of the parts available to make this, but if you were to buy everything needed from scratch, this isn’t a cheap way of getting a TV setup – you can get pre-made set top boxes for less. But they don’t have as many features and where is the fun in just plugging it in and watching TV?
I hope my little writeup of how I made my TV recorder was interesting, if you have any feedback or have tried something similar, drop me a comment or a tweet on Twitter.
I’ve previously mentioned that I wanted to upgrade my heating system so I could program it with more complex timings or control it form my phone. But there’s a catch: The house is rented, so the whole system must do no damage, be made only of removable parts and be installed without modifying any of the existing infrastructure.
In this post, I’ll talk about how I managed it, how it works and what the current state of the project is.
My electric heating is controlled by a Timeguard RTS113 mechanical timer located awkwardly in a kitchen cupboard; it consists of a large outer ring that rotates once every 24 hours. On this ring, you push in red (on) or blue (off) plastic pegs (called tappets in the user manual) at the time you want the heating to turn on or off. As the peg passes a control spindle (representing the current time in the bottom right) it pushes it around approximately one eighth of a turn. Each eighth of a turn of the control spindle, toggles the heating on or off.
A second inner ring allows you to suppress the morning or afternoon schedule for a given day in the week. For example, you can have the heating come on at 6:00am and 7:00pm every day, except on Saturdays where it does not come on at 6:00am because the morning schedule is suppressed.
This works reasonably well, but it’s not very flexible – you pretty much a to live your life on the same schedule every day – if you deviate from it the heating is either wasting power while you’re out, or you’re freezing and have to reach into the cupboard to press the override button.
I’d love to have a smart thermostat such as Nest or Hive but they don’t support my electric heating and as this is a rental house, I’m not able to modify anything to support them.
What I Wanted To Do
The control spindle that is rotated by the pegs has a small slot on the top that can be turned manually using a screw driver to toggle the heating on an off. I can remove all of the pegs and use a stepper motor to very gently turn the spindle each time I want to change the heating state. I could then connect this to a controller that receives instructions from the internet, and write whatever software I wanted to run the schedule.
Recently I bought a Monoprice Voxel (a rebranded FlashForge Adventurer 3) 3D printer, and I’ve spent the last couple of weeks getting to grips with it. I’m very impressed – it works well and I’ve had a lot of fun building parts of my projects.
One interesting this about the printer is that it comes with its own slicing software called FlashPrint. This seems to work quite well, slicing all the models I threw at it and sending them to the printer. However, I was curious if it was possible to use the printer with the Ultimaker Cura slicer, which has some more advanced features and is supported more widely by the community.
I did a load of research and found some interesting topics on reddit and Ultimaker forum, I also examined the .gx files produced by FlashPrint and thoes sent to the printer by PolarCloud. I’ve gathered all this together into a this guide for using Cura, but it stands on the shoulders of a whole bunch of other people in the community, so thanks to those people you really helped me figure all this out.
Update (January 2011): A YouTube user confirmed that these steps also work for the FlashForge Adventurer 3 Lite.
Every model I have printed in this way has worked well and I am very pleased. However, follow this guide at your own risk – If something bad happens to your printer, on your own head be it.
FlashPrint and the printer appear to use a custom file format for printing – .gx. This is identical to the .g file used by other printers but with some additional metadata at the top. I suspect this is the image of the model that’s shown while printing, as well as the print time estimation.
The printer is perfectly happy to print .gcode files, provided the file extension is changed to .g first. While printing a .g file the time estimation on the printer screen does not count down the remaining time, it counts up the elapsed time. Also instead of a small image of the model being shown, a generic icon is displayed.
Update (November 2021): I’m hearing from some people that after updating the printer to the latest firmware, that they get a “file format error” on the printer when using Cura sliced files. It seems like FlashForge have changed something (deliberate or otherwise) that is blocking Cura. I don’t have a solution to this right now, if you have more information, do get in contact. If this works for you do not update the printer.
Firstly, you need to install the latest version of Cura from the Ulimaker website.
This is the first post in a series documenting my attempt to build a smart heating system for a rental house. Further posts will follow as I work on it.
I have electric heating in my house, powered by a central timer from the past. The timer is a masterpiece of engineering, but is incredibly crude by modern standards. I’d love a connected system such as Nest or Hive but these systems only support low voltage trigger systems found with most gas systems, not the high voltage switching I have.
So I want to build my own, It’ll be fun, educational and greatly improve my quality of life in the winter. There’s just one thing though: I don’t own the house, so whatever I do must be easily reverted / removed / undone. Also, I’m a software not an electrician so, in the name of safety, I am not re-wiring anything or changing how it currently works.
The timer is a Timeguard RTS113, it supports switching the heating on or off once every 30 mins by inserting a red (on) or blue (off) tappet at the appropriate time. On an inner ring it supports suppressing this schedule for the morning or afternoon for any day in the week. For example, you can have the heating some on at 6:00am, and 7:00pm every day, except on Saturdays where it does not come on at 6am.
The tappets are attached to a rotating dial, which rotates once per 24 hours. Each tappet has a lug, that as it passes a control spindle, pushes it around an 8th of a turn. As the control spindle is rotated it toggles the heating on or off.
The control spindle has a plastic screw slot on the top to help you see its current state when programming the timer. So, in theory, I can remove all of the tappets and turn the control spindle manually (and very gently) using a stepper motor each time I want to turn it on or off.
Proof of Concept
I picked up a suitable looking stepper motor and motor controller from The Pi Hut, and hot glued a washer to the end. By holding this in place I was able to turn the heating on an off by rotating the motor with an Arduino. Now to figure our a more permanent arrangement…
I’ve already used Tinkercad and made a driver head to fit over the motor shaft and engage with the timer’s control spindle (replacing the hot glue blob from the proof of concept), I’ll 3D print this and see how it goes. Then I need to design some kind of support to hold the motor in the correct place so I can let go of it.
In my last post I mentioned that I also wanted my info display to show the current indoor temperature, read from the air quality monitor that I made. I built the air quality monitor a couple of years ago – it was my first experience playing with an Arduino and was a lot of fun (interspersed with moments of utterly frustrating confusion). I thought I’d put together a quick intro to what it does and how I made it.
Why Build An Air Quality Monitor?
I saw an advert for an attractive little box that you put on a shelf that monitors the air quality in your room. It has an app to view the data and send you push notifications if it the air was too unhealthy. I loved the idea – I’m a big tracker of data (I once had to log of every single ingredient of every single product I ate for an entire year) and thought it would be really interesting to find out what my environment in my house is like.
I considered buying it… I really did. Then I decided I could totally build my own. I started by buying some sensors:
Like a lot of Londoners, my trip to and from work involves moving between a few different trains, any of which could be delayed and cause me to be late to work. Or worse – late home. As checked the tube status on my phone over breakfast one morning, I realised that it would be super useful to have some kind of display in my living room allowing me to see at a glance how my commute is looking before I set off, so I can go a different way if needed.
There are a few options to create a display like this – I could re-purpose a tablet or phone in the technology graveyard drawer, writing a quick and dirty app to run on it. But where would the fun in that be? Sure, it would work but I wanted to learn something along the way. I decided to use a Raspberry Pi and a display of some kind, but if its going to live in my house, it needs to be pretty.
I ordered the Primoroni Inky wHAT – an eInk display with all the headers to screw it directly onto a Raspberry PI. It even has Python library for displaying stuff. I went for the two-colour red/black model; I thought I could use the red mode to make any tube status issues stand out.
As soon as I’d ordered the screen, I started thinking about what I would use it for. I came up with a few things I wanted to do:
Display the current tube status of the most useful tube lines
Display the current weather / temperature outside from DarkSky
Show the current indoor temperature, pulled from my Air Quality Monitor (I built this a couple of years back, I might cover it in a later post)
Display some kind of indication that central heating is on or off
Show the time
I drew this little diagram to get started:
Ever the software engineering project, the first task was to
investigate the APIs to give me the data I wanted.